Friday, May 06, 2005

Jeddah: Why I Love It!

Hi friends,

I am so dying to go back to Jeddah. I just am. I am envious of my friends who are in Jeddah now! I love Jeddah because I grew up there. Often times, when I am coming back to Jeddah, I tell people "I am going back home." They think I am either going back to Pakistan or that I am Saudi.

I was three years old probably when I came to Jeddah, and so I have been there since 1980. Counting 2005, thats like 25 years!! Oh my Lord...25 long years. Well, I left Jeddah in 1996 after completing my O'Levels. I wish there were universities there, so I wouldn't have to leave. But, I still kept my iqama (residence permit), and I still have it, which is why I have to return to Jeddah every six months!

A lot of people ask me: isn't Jeddah boring? What do you do there? Don't you get bored? I tell them one thing: No! There are loads of things you can do: lots of good clean fun! You don't need alcohol and nightclubs to have fun. If you want that kind of fun, go to Dubai!

So, what do I do for fun in Jeddah! Here is my fun things to do. There are loads of other things to do, but these are my favorite things!

1. JARIR bookstore:
---This is my favorite bookstore; yes, even more so than Borders, Barnes and Noble, WHSmith. Although Jarir doesn't allow for all kinds of books, I still love it. It has books, magazines, games, computer, stationery stuff....everything! I have to go there anytime I am in Jeddah. Sometimes, my weekend plan is to visit Jarir! My trip to Jeddah is not complete if I don't go to Jarir!

2. RESTAURANTS:
---Chilis, Fuddruckers, Cafe Aroma, Lost City, Paninos, Marhaba, Papa John's Pizza: these places I have to go when I am in Jeddah. These are amazing places to eat; places which even Dubai cannot beat! Sure, Dubai has its own restaurants, but there is something special about these restaurants in Jeddah. There are loads more restaraunts, cafes, coffee shops that are amazing to visit! Don't forget SANDS, probably the best shawerma in town!

3. OBHUR beach:
---You want water sports, go to Obhur. I went there several times, and Jeddah has one of the world's BEST diving areas. It is second to Australia's Great Barrier reef. I loved my snorkelling experience so much. I also did sailing and canoeing as well.

4. MALLS/ SHOPPING:
---You guys have to believe me when I tell you that shopping is so much cheaper in Jeddah than a city like Dubai. I was fooled by the promise of Dubai's discount when I got a phone for 600 Dirhams. I was led to believe that I got a phone for a good price, since it was shopping festival. I come to Jeddah, and I see the same phone, with the same package, for 400Dirhams. I wanted to rip my hair out! Now, I do my shopping from Jeddah!

5. TAHLIYAH street:
--- This road is like the Oxford Street of London. I have to go on it no matter what, especially that new Patchi chocolate shop! Although I go on it on weekdays, since on weekends, the whole of Jeddah is there!

6. CORNICHE:
---Aaaah! What can I say about the corniche! It's amazing. Its a great place to just go sit, and relax. In the winter months, I would go there with my parents, and we would park the car, get out, walk along, witness the water crashing high with the rocks, and experience the splashes of water on us! Plus you can see the world's TALLEST fountain in the world! Oh yes, there is also that amazing Green Island restaurant, where you can get to have a nice posh meal above the waters!

7. HOME:
--- A big reason why I love Jeddah is because of my home. I miss my room there! :) I live in a compound where my family and another family are the only Pakistanis in a Saudi filled compound. There are no other nationalities there. So, because it is fully Saudis, except for us two, there is no security at the gate, which makes it a very easy place to enter! Plus, my compound has Havana cafe, the first cafe which allowed for loud music! Gosh, I miss their lasagna already! *sigh*

8. DRIVING:
--- Despite the traffic being haphazard, driving in Jeddah is so great. The roads are big and well developed (at least in the new city!) unlike Dubai, where it can take you an hour to go from Dubai to Sharjah, sometimes upto three hours, when on a clear road its only 10mins away!

9. BALAD, Downtown:
--- The Real Jeddah: Balad. I remember hating Balad when I was little, but overtime I have come to appreciate the character of this place. The shops, and the streets, and some of the buildings are all old Jeddah. As an architect, it's one of my favorite places to visit. I imagine what life would be like for people living here!

10. JEDDAH as an ARTISTIC CITY:
--- Probably the number one reason why I like Jeddah so much. It is such an artisitic city. Almost every roundabout has some monument, structure or scuplture. Jeddah has the world's largest bicycle and largest geometry set. These peices of art always create some kind of debate amongst the people. They either like it, hate it, are confused by it. The purpose of these art pieces are served when people talk about it. I have yet to come across another city, where there are such kinds of pieces almost all over the city.

I do hope that new visitors, and old dwellers like me, come to appreciate Jeddah for what it is. I know I write a lot of critical stuff about the people and the bad policies there, but that doesn't mean I don't like it. It's unfortunate that expatriates are slowly leaving the country because of Saudization, which means, my dad will have to leave one day as well. I don't know what that day would be like for me. I don't know if I will be able to settle back in Pakistan! It will be that day when I leave Jeddah that I will miss it! Ok, ok, I know some of you out there are asking what is it with me and my love for Jeddah. You only have to live here like I did to appreciate it fully guys!

Mansur

31 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for writing this beautiful tribute to Jeddah. Jeddah is my home too. No matter where I go in the world, I always want to return back to Jeddah. I lived there for so many years, and someday I wish to return to Jeddah. Now I am based in Riyadh and there doesnt go a day by that I dont think of Jeddah, my home sweet home.

Anonymous said...

Some of my favortie places in Jeddah are: City Plaza at the big dome center, Jarir Bookstore, Balad, the wholesale market, Bin Dawood Supermarket, Danube Supermarket, Le Gourmet, Sawari Mall, Corniche, The Hilton, Obhur, Al Ajami, Chillis, Casper and Gambinis, Jamjoom, Gold Souk, Applebees, TGI Friday, all the other new malls, The sports center for women at Sulaiman Fakhee Hospital, Rawal Makthabath "Stationary Fantasies", Check E Cheese, Fun Time Pizza, Mersal Village, and last but not least I truly love and miss Jeddah for one other very important thing: AL-BAIK!!!!

Anonymous said...

Spelling error: CHUCK E CHEESE

Anonymous said...

Mansur, I think this is truly the best article you've written so far in the past few weeks. You made my day by writing about Jeddah. How I miss Jeddah....thanks for bringing back fond memories.

Mansour said...

Oh yeah, how could I have not counted Al Baik...gosh, that place beats KFC any day! Applebees...yummy...I always eat the Honey Mustard Chicken...all the time! What about Lenotre---that yummy pastry shop! Sawary mall, yeah, thats another place! I went to Chuck E Cheese with my niece. I don't know if you all remember but there used to be a place called Al-Dewan, a McDonalds' look alike, but has closed down now. Man, I used to go to birthday parties there. Oh yes, how about Atallah theme park, and the new one as well, with the 3 loops roller coasters. *sigh* I need to go to Jeddah!

To all you anonymous commentators, thanks...somehow I wish I knew who you are...even initials would help!

Mansur

Anonymous said...

hey mansur, do u remember Wimpy's and the supermarket called Safeway and one called Sarawat, and another one called Happy Family which is now Panda.

Mansour said...

yeah, i remember Wimpys, as well as Wendys. and both of them are closed down now. Safeway became Safestway...cheesy, aint it? Happy family became Panda....i guess we can go on and on!

Mansur

Mansour said...

Hey Bloggers Reviewers,

While I appreciate your offer to write, I will have to decline your tempting offer. If I had more time on my hands, I would have taken it up. As it is, I write these posts on my blog at the spur of the moment. They come naturally to me. For me to invest my time writing for a wider audience would force me to be more careful to their sensitivities, keeping in mind culture, moral, and religious ethics. On my blog, I write whatever is on my heart. I am honored though that you have chosen to ask me to write for you. Thank you for the offer, and I am sorry to disappoint you this way.

Sincerely,
Mansur

Anonymous said...

LOL!

TOO FUNNY...

akjfaifjakmk said...

omg! i loveee ur tribute to Jedz. I've always thought of writing a beautiful piece on the country i ws born in (though im desi, i say im a 'saudi' ;) hehe that's how much i love that place) Alhomduallih still lucky that dad's back there. Again, EXCELLENT piece of writing.. loved everyyy detail of ur description and yes, u've completely done justice to my most beautiful city in the world. And i dont know whether u mentioned it or not.. lekin a main reason y this city is so majestic is cuz it's the gateway to the two holy cities of Islam. - and that's where the beauty parts come in :) thanx again. i enjoyed every bit.

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Anonymous said...

Salam all....
i'm a 25 year old saudi girl (jeddawiah!) and i just wanted to say...by the end of this blog i was in tears (and i don't cry easily). to sense this much passion and love to my city from non saudis whom i believed hated my city, my country, my culture and everything we're about was phenomenal. and i thought foriegners couldn't wait to get out or flea to dubai (overstated in my opinion).
my american husband is taking a job back in his country..meaning i'll have to move out of jeddah in a few weeks...i can't explain what's going inside me except that i feel my soul being ripped out of my flesh...i can't breath...thank you for being loyal to my jeddah

Anonymous said...

HI brother,
I understand fully how you feel about jeddah. we even like the same cartoons when we were kids! I went to Manarat Jeddah and left it back in 94 after my igcse's. now i am a doctor from bangladesh. like you i still kept my iqamah. brother i still miss those days when we were all equal in school, the occasional fights and escapes from the principal mr. kamal. got caught twice. :) anyways felt real good reading about the city and home i always and still love. here's to you my friend.
Salam and take care
Ahmed Ashraf Ali Mandal

Anonymous said...

Hey Mansur...
Your article made me cry. I am really home sick at the moment and i miss home too. I was there back in July'06 and came back in Sep'06. I cant wait to go back again. I live in London now, have been here for almost 13 years but 'home' will always be there. All the best.. xKx

Anonymous said...

Yo, this is one of the best articles out there about Jeddah.

Hometown man, represent. I had a love-hate relationship with Jeddah. Lived there for the first 12 years of me life. I loved it when I was 0-6, not so much when I was 6-12.
I was old enough to realize the two sides of the city - the rich and the utterly poor. I totally hated when I saw the slums and the beggars (and there are many). But there are amazing aspects of the city too, so lets not forget.

I haven't seen it in a very long time, yep, 12 years.
Your descriptions are fantastic. Al-BAIK is unquestionably the best fast-food place on earth. The shopping is dope.

I love where I live now, more than Jeddah. But Jeddah will always occupy a place in my heart. Thanks for sharing your experiences as well.

Anonymous said...

I cannot believe you guys eat an american food there! Bleee! Nasty!
I am polish, healthy woman living in the USA and I never eat fast food, pizza or all this fake unhealthy foods!
Middle eastern food is so amazing and tasty...why would anybody go to these terrible american chains and not let the saudi to make money but americans!
What in the world is Mc Donald doing there????
Saudi food is nr 1!! And you guys should support it!
I am coming to Jeddah soon and I am going to go only to saudi owned, saudi traditional middlea eastern restaurants or cafes.
Jeddah and Middle East have to stop act like america is something!
People, open your eyes!

Mansour said...

I think I said that SANDS is the best place in Jeddah. If there were some decent Saudi owned places, I would be the first in line. AL BAIK is the BEST ever. Kudu is not the best ever. I hope you can find Saudi owned places there and let us know which is good and which arent. Good luck to you!

Mansur

Anonymous said...

I live in Jeddah for seven years. It is a horrible place and don't be fooled by the over romantic description of it. The heat is oppressive and so is the culture.

Get a life and get out of there!

Mansour said...

clearly you have not lived there long enough and clearly you must have had some bad experiences to come to a conclusion that jeddah is a horrible place. i can empathize with you because i have been in dubai for 8 years and i think it's a worse place to be in than jeddah. so to each one his/ her own opinion. jeddah, according to me, is an awesome place.

Mansur

Anonymous said...

i am curious about the time you can shop in jeddah what time do they close till do they close the mall like 3-4 in the morning and if you wanted to go out after midnite till five in the morning is it ok to be out is there any places to go there during those time like early in the morning between 2-5 a.m.??

Anonymous said...

Can someone please recommend reasonable compounds in Jeddah @SAR110K per year for a 3 bed Villa. I will be moving from Canada with 3 kids. Nothing too fancy, but kids friendly. I do not mind mixed compounds (semi-western). Thinking about the American or the British School – something close to these schools. I will be working on Madinah Road near the airport.

Anonymous said...

i have been in jeddah 4 the past 1yr....i am still new here ...i would like sme recomendations for family fun...aprt frm...shoppin,resturents,beaches...is there anythin else in jeddah to do aprt frm these......coz i have already done tht ,wnt to experience smethin new......
i have been to riyadh and dammam...i am sooo glad tht i am livin in jeddah....:))

Anonymous said...

This is very interesting. My best friend is Saudi from Jeddah, and he's been trying to convince me to move there since the last 4 years (I'm a Lebanese in Dubai).

I managed to visit the city 3 times on business trips, in 2007/2008. To be honest the community there is quite unique. But I notice the only people who like it are those that are like you (Mansur) who lived there for 10 years+. I have spoken to many people who moved there after university for the first time, and usually they all hate it.

Since I have quite a few friends there, I am definitely considering a move, if the opportunity arises.

Dubai, as you said has alot of traffic and is overrated. However, I'll have to disagree on the shopping - Dubai is a little cheaper than Saudi (and Kuwait for that matter) from what I've experienced.

Mansour said...

HX,

you are right that people who grew up in Jeddah in the 80s seem to like it. Ask someone to go there today, and they will not like it. I love Jeddah purely because I grew up there. I also love the laidback lifestyle. I was in Dubai 3 days ago, and the traffic just got to me. Shopping is relatively expensive/ cheap depending on what you are looking for. :D

Mansur

Anonymous said...

I understand that you like the compound seen... Why not go native, and just find some sand near the beech and put up a tent. You could raise sheep and goats for the pilgrims. I also recommend wearing an oversize white jersey with crosses visible from any direction: the crusader racket is often a neglected side line in KSA. As a finishing touch, I would decorate your tent and vehicles with "The Three Little Piglets" theme imagery and without fail get a hold of some is-ar-li license plates to decorate your automobiles.
Cheers from Jiddah....

Anonymous said...

No doubt, Jeddah is a beautiful city and is near to Holly Makkah, I recently came to Jeddah from pakistan and I am 30 years old. I surprised to see the life style of the peoples of Jeddah, which is no doubt according to Islam traditions. I proud on the peoples of Jeddah and also proud upon me to have there. God bless to all the citizen of Jeddah.

Irfan Shah,
Pakistan.

Anonymous said...

I work and live in Jeddah. I can never imagine of moving to any other city of KSA from here. Jeddah is a cosmopolitan culture with multi ethnic culture. The beauty of it is that every national thinks that jeddah belongs to him. Indian thinks, jeddah is like india, whereas Pakistanis think, it like pakistan and nevertheless Bangladeshis thinks everyone is a Bangali in Jeddah. By default Bangladeshis and Keralites speak their own language with everyone considering him from his own place.

Mohammed Shafi
szsaad@gmail.com

Anonymous said...

One thing more we r very lucky muslims in jeddah ,when ever we want we stand and go for tawaf and ummrah ,there r many muslims all over the world who wants to come and waited for years to perform hajj and ummrahs.in my views we r the peoples blessed by Allah to live closer to (KHAN_KABAH).Alhamdollilah.

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